British Virgin Islands
Visiting Tortola, the largest of the British Virgin Islands, is a dream for beach lovers and sailing enthusiasts. With its pristine white-sand beaches like Smuggler’s Cove and Long Bay Beach, the island offers the perfect setting for relaxation and sun-soaked adventures. Sailing around Tortola and its surrounding cays provides breathtaking views of turquoise waters, hidden coves, and vibrant marine life, making it a paradise for boaters and snorkelers. The crystal-clear blue water not only enhances the island’s beauty but also promotes a sense of tranquility and well-being, being on this island could change your life. It changed ours.
Whether basking in the sun under a breezy palm, exploring all the islands by boat, snorkeling, kiteboarding, foiling and hiking Mt. Sage or simply taking it slow with endless ocean views, Tortola is one of the last places on this earth you can just chill out. It is the ultimate place to reconnect with nature and completely unwind in a stunning setting. While it is not declared a blue zone, the benefits of being by the water immediately impact your serenity.
It is the only place in the world that we can completely let go and relax. With a full day of travel on either end, plan for 10 days if you can, and go for 14 or 15 if you can swing it. You will be planning your next trip back by day…well, within a few hours of being there.
XO, Michelle
Tortola: A Little Overview
Tortola is a stunningly beautiful island — wild, rugged, and unpretentious. It’s a place where laid-back luxury meets simple surfer charm, and where you can find both indulgence and ease at nearly any budget. The people are wonderful, the food is delicious, and the raw beauty of the island will stay with you long after you leave. Its treasures, like its rum, are often hidden or distilled — meant to be discovered slowly.
Like so many islands in the Caribbean, Tortola’s breathtaking landscapes are matched by a complicated history. The story here includes the slave trade, cane plantations, and pirates. Take the time to learn what you can about her past — it deepens the experience and gives weight to her beauty.
Traveling to Tortola requires patience — every time. Things move at their own pace, and you’ll be happier if you move with them. Bring your true sense of adventure, a willingness to pivot, and an openness to both the seductions and the flaws of island life. Plans will shift, service may be slow, and sometimes you’ll have to figure things out on the fly. But that’s part of the magic.
Leave your complaints and your hurried life at home. Let the island remind you what it feels like to exhale — to sit in the warm breeze with a cold drink and take it all in.
Fair Warning
Tortola isn’t for everyone — and that’s part of what makes it so special. This is paradise for people who love the charm of barefoot luxury, the rhythm of simple living, and the kind of freedom that comes from salt air and open water. Surfers, sailors, and anyone who thrives outdoors will feel right at home here. Like many Caribbean islands, Tortola carries the visible scars of its past and that history is part of her allure.
You can have just about any experience you’re looking for, and at nearly any budget. Stay in a cozy surf shack for around $150 a night, or go full tilt with a $15,000-per-night private villa with a chef. The range is wide, and that’s the beauty of the visit. Tortola can meet you where you are.
Prices for villas and flights fluctuate dramatically throughout the year. The island essentially shuts down from late July through mid-November for hurricane season. High season runs December through February, when flights and villas skyrocket — the holidays bring the ultra-wealthy and villa owners back in force. We’ve found the sweet spot is early January, right after the price drop around the 3rd to 6th. From there, the closer it gets to warm weather in the States, the lower the island prices dip.
The BVI (never “BVIs”) can be one of the most expensive destinations in the Caribbean, with many new luxury boutique stays and luxury villas built post Irma — but with a little strategy, it doesn’t have to break the bank. We’ve learned how to be strategic about our spending choices each time we visit. Watch flight prices, book for that early January window, and balance your food spending by mixing dining out with simple meals at your villa or condo. Supporting local restaurants and businesses is still a must, but a little planning goes a long way.
Choosing accommodations to fit your budget is easy here. Splurge on a villa with a pool and ocean views, or keep it simple with a beachside condo or a small, family-run resort. There are no chain resorts here, except the Windham that was purchased post Irma to revitalize the area. It does not feel like a chain. There’s a place for everyone on this little 11x3 mile island — if you come with an open mind, a patient heart, and a love of island life, you may just find a way to get there every year.
Assemble Your Crew
If you want the biggest bang for your buck — hands down, assemble your crew. Tortola is best shared. Two or three couples traveling together is ideal, as many of the island’s most beautiful villas have three to five bedrooms. Sharing a space means sharing the memories, and splitting the cost brings those dream villas into reach. We’ve done the math many times — three couples in one villa (or two smaller ones nearby) often costs about the same as the lowest-priced condos. Do the math, gather your people, and make it happen.
Traveling as a group also pays off when it comes to adventures. Chartering a boat for a day trip or snorkeling excursion becomes far more affordable — and infinitely more fun — when everyone chips in. It’s always the best day of the trip.
Pro Tip: Tortola is no place for high maintenance. The vibe here is natural, campy chic — barefoot, beachy, relaxed. Leave the fussy friends at home and bring the easygoing ones, the roll-with-it types. There’s no time for drama in paradise. Keep it light, keep it simple, and you’ll find yourself laughing under the stars with friends you’ll never forget. You might even meet new ones from around the world and start planning your next island reunion before you’ve even left — we certainly have.
Villa Location is Key
We love the West End, especially the north side — Belmont, Long Bay, and Apple Bay. Choosing a villa with some walkability is a smart move, since most of the roads on Tortola are steep, winding, and definitely not pedestrian-friendly. We prefer lower houses with a view for convenience, but the higher villas reward you with absolutely jaw-dropping panoramas. The trade-off? The drive. Some homes sit way up in the hills with vertical switchbacks and roads that can test even confident drivers. We love it up there, but we plan wisely — fewer back-and-forth trips for everyone’s sanity.
When you head out for the day, bring everything you need: plenty of water, a cooler, and a change of clothes for dinner. Not all beaches have bathrooms, so plan ahead and be self-sufficient. A little preparation goes a long way here — and it keeps your day focused on what really matters: the sun, the sea, and that sweet island rhythm that slows everything down just enough.
The steep inclines and winding roads are part of the adventure here. If tricky driving makes you uneasy, look for a villa that’s lower on the hillside and easier to access. The trade-off is that the higher you go, the more breathtaking the views — every home comes with its own version of paradise. Most villas also offer wonderful amenities: outdoor showers, ice makers, BBQ areas, pools, and hot tubs. A washer and dryer is a major plus for longer stays.
Be Kind to Your Drivers
Usually one or two people end up doing all the driving, so be kind to them. Driving on Tortola can be nerve-wracking: it’s on the left, the roads are narrow and steep, and the switchbacks can feel endless. Trekking back up to the villa for a forgotten item is not a quick errand — it’s an event. We’ve learned the hard way that it’s best to make sure everyone has everything they need for the entire day before heading out. Think sunscreen, towels, water, snacks, a change of clothes — whatever keeps you from asking your driver to “run” back up to the villa.
Golden Hour Magic
We love to stay at the beach until the sun begins to dip, savoring the last light with a good book, some laughter, and maybe a belly full of rum. Time your beach departure with happy hour or sunset and you’ll catch the island at its most beautiful. I have to say, some of the best memories are made between leaving the beach and until that sun sets. It may have to do with day drinking, or relaxing…but pure fun in the trek to catch the sun set with friends.
Most restaurants are tucked near the beaches, so it’s common for people to brush off the sand, freshen up a bit, and roll in for dinner. There’s no need to run back to the house to shower every day — you’ll lose precious time. Save those overhauls for the nights you plan something special. This is where low maintenance friends are key. There is nothing wrong with perfect hair and the perfect outfit, but there is something more beautiful about the raw simplicity of not giving a shit about those things on Tortola. Natural beauty in the salty hair and makeup free faces reigns supreme. Guys in slightly wrinkled linen and flip flops, or a t-shirt and shorts. There are places to spruce up a bit though!
We love slow mornings at the villa — coffee, reading, the views. It’s the calm before the island day begins. Many beaches offer chairs if you’re ordering from the beach bars, but some are more primitive — no chairs, no bathrooms, no frills, just stunning natural beauty. Those are often our favorites. Pack accordingly: don’t leave the house without water, maybe a cooler. Be diligent about getting your “morning routine” out of the way. You never know when you will have access to a bathroom.
And if you’re still with me — keep reading. There’s so much more to share.
Here is a handy guide from our friends at Villas of Tortola to help you navigate getting to Tortola. If you must go without us, do rent a villa from Sam and JC at Villas of Tortola and tell them Marc and Michelle sent you.
GETTING THERE AND WHEN TO GO:
We have established that Tortola is not for everyone and can be a little tricky to plan your travel to and from. Plainly, it is not an uppity kind of place overall, but you can find extremely upscale places all over the BVI. You will see realities of island life, places still in reparations from Irma, places abandoned because of that hurricane. Mixed in, you find the most amazing people and an overwhelming feeling of happiness everywhere.
The BVI is a big sailing hotspot. Thousands of travelers come for chartered island hopping vacations. Many are repeats every year. It is a cruise ship port unfortunately. Thousands of people are unleashed on the island on those days in port and pretty much take over key beaches. We avoid them at all costs.
These are our tips, but do access the app from Villas of Tortola, especially when you book with them for all the info you will need.
From Boston, nonstop or 1 hop flights to St. Thomas, where you can ferry over, or fly ($$$) to Beef Island at the east end of Tortola from Miami or San Juan. We fly BOS>STT. You do not need a passport to visit St. Thomas or St. John and St. Croix or Puerto Rico.
You’ll need a passport to board the ferry in STT to the BVI, your real ID and to fill out visitor forms on a portal for customs. This speeds things up and is mandatory.
STT has 2 ferry ports. Charlotte Amalie and Red Hook. We’ll get into the differences, pros and cons.
North swells in the in winter months cause high seas and rougher water on the north side and the beaches calm down after February. Avoid mid July to late October for Caribbean travel if you can. Hurricanes are unpredictable but this is their season. A beach can go from 15 foot waves to flat, so plan accordingly.
Choices of insanely wonderful villas and condos, boutique hotel stays, small private hotels, or little surf shacks, so a full range of prices to fit your budget.
Tortola has, we think, an underrated food scene. Everything is on slow mo there. Everything is super slow and unhurried. They celebrate "slow food" and "island time" to stop hectic lifestyles. If you are in a rush to eat to be somewhere, do not go to a sit down restaurant.
The edge we love—Tortola feels like the loose and free 60s and 70s and sometimes you notice specific things that are “so Tortola”.
No drinking and driving laws, but if you drink and drive on those roads, you go over cliffs and kill people, so don’t. Weed is illegal, so do not bring it with you.
It is customary to give people rides if you have room in the car. Be careful, but be kind if you can. A lot of tourists do not, but the more we have been there, the more we see locals stopping so we do sometimes, especially to women and anyone walking up big hills. Lots of students walk too and we only stop if they look like they are looking for a ride.
The island is only 11 x 3 miles, and everyone knows everyone. If you say something about someone at the ferry, by afternoon, they will know. The island is safe, but always be aware of your surroundings, just like anywhere and never leave your stuff out of your site to avoid a hell of a problem if you lose it.
TIMING STRATEGIES FOR FLYING:
The “Off-Season Advantage Travel” between the end of April to July or late October-early December for lower rates and fewer crowds.
Many properties drop prices by 30-50%. Monitor flight deals for best values and book flexible stays. Sometimes the villa you want dictates the travel window, so just prioritize based on what you are willing to spend. Hurricane season peaks July to September/October, so aim for April-June or November-early December. Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year are the very highest rates, so again, waiting until after Jan 3-6, rates drop if you prefer that time of year.
A hot tip about traveling in high season-It is very busy with some of the wealthiest visitors. Beaches are buzzing and restaurants are full, so plan accordingly. Many of the locals we talk to admit that December to February has some of the most entitled people, and it causes a lot of stress on the service staff, who have come to be friends. Take care of the people that make your stay wonderful, no matter where you are.
BOOKING YOUR FLIGHT
First, before booking flights, you want to look at the ferry schedule to make sure your flight times will match up. New schedules are released each season so make sure you get the right ones.
You want to land early enough (between 1:30 and 3:00 pm) to have at least 2 ferries after as options in case you are delayed.
Ferry locations in St. Thomas, Charlotte Amalie (CA) and Red Hook (RH).
CA to Road Town (RT) is a 1 hour ferry ride, but the taxi ride to the ferry is only 10 minutes.
RH is a 40-60 minute taxi (depending on time of day and traffic or goats, you never know), but the ferry ride is only 1/2 hour to West End (WE) and clearing in West End is much faster than Road Town.
Basically, you prefer one over the other, or what logistically works better for your schedule.
Jerry’s Car Rental will drop your car for you at the ferry. Usually with the keys in it. They may meet you to sign the paperwork, or have you swing by the office to do that. Very chill. If you rent from them, tell them we sent you. Jerry’s is very good at customer service. We love them. Reserve online and they will send you a confirmation email and set up communications. Many vendors usually use WhatsApp, so create an account. Save their numbers in your phone in case you need them there.
Referals are huge there. You will see that Villas of Tortola recommends certain businesses and we value these relationships because we have seen them work. When people know your name or who sent you, they are so very grateful to them and have their back. Old school, island ways…and we abide.
All businesses on Tortola are pretty old school and antiquated, but catching up. Things are done on paper and few are digitally savvy but many are making headway. Many still use a phone call as best method of communication, or WhatsApp, so download it. Many businesses have rudimentary websites, but things are done in person or with a phone call. It is all part of the charm and adventure.
COOL PLACES TO STAY: Barefoot Luxury or a tight-ass budget——> get there!
WE recommend Villas of Tortola for your accommodations. There are other ones, but Sam and her staff are top notch, so reliable and go 150% over expectations, still even for us, who know the ropes.
Concierge service with Vilas of Tortola. Avoid Airbnb, VRBO, etc. - We love to use these platforms, but on Tortola, we discovered Sam and JC at Villas of Tortola about 10 years ago, a wonderful property management company that gives concierge service. We love them and going direct saves you money and keeps them thriving. They go over the top for every client. A win for all.
You can use Expedia or something to check rates for Sebastians, Long Bay, The Sugar Mill, Bananakeet and the other hotels.
Please mention Michelle and Marc if you book with VoT!
Many of these places on Villas of Tortola are available on Airbnb and VRBO, but they include fees that go to corporations. When you rent through VoT, the homeowner who lends their gorgeous home and Sam who takes care of their property benefit. Small businesses v. those guys…..so please support our friends!
Villa rentals (small to large, great for groups to share and defray costs)
Book with friends or family to split expenses; many 3-4 bedroom homes rent for under $500/night in the shoulder season, with 3 couples that is about $100/night each. Hell yes.
A 4K/week villa can be just about 1K if you are filling those bedrooms.
The experience of going with friends also inspires future trips with friends. We now have a growing group of friends and family.
Think about driving, views and breezes…high houses are harder to drive to, but have the best views and breezes. Lower houses with views, usually have nice breezes.
Check for AC in the bedrooms, especially. Some places do not have AC in the living areas because they are open-air.
Check the number of bathrooms, if you are like us, you will want some privacy.
Remember the sun rises in the east and sets in the west, so each house gets different sun situations. This matters for morning lounging, pool temps and house brightness. We notice these things now.
Each house has pros and cons, but we have found a few that check all the boxes for our preferences.
Lower priced options:
Apple Tides (3 level condos) - Rare, on the beach. Clean, cheap, killer location, but on the main road, so weigh the pros and cons. No living rooms inside, all outdoor living, which is common. Tight bathrooms, so if you are not so small, it may be tight. Unbeatable views and morning coffee on the beach. Love this spot, especially if it’s just the 2 of us. The first floor has access to the beach loungers and the small deck that gets morning and evening sun.
Long Bay Condos - Hillside privately owned condos on the Long Bay Resort property. Available through VoT, but see which ones are updated to your liking. While they are on resort property, you can buy a day pass to use the pool and courts. You get $75 back for restaurant purchases. We love the convenience and walkability for morning strolls on the beach, coffee runs or walking to dinner.
Sebastian's on the Beach, a private boutique hotel - Oceanfront rooms, cheaper garden view rooms. Beachfront has killer views with super casual island vibes. Plus— killer bingo and karaoke nights. Either yo love that or not, but it’s the kind of kitsch that can be fun with a group and tons of locals show up. It is a big deal. Hell, you can win a bottle of Sebastians rum! The property has a cute gift shop and Nardie’s Beach Bar. Great staff. We visit here at some point every couple days. Apple Bay is a surf break in the winter months. Book reservations online, especially for bingo nights. Best hamburgers and pizza and we hear they have a new chef.
Long Bay Resort- Pretty pricey, but voted #1 for all the reasons. If you can swing it want a little romance, this is the place. Convenient location, one of the best restaurants on the island and beach bar is our favorite, tied with Indigo in CGB.
GETTING AROUND
Rent a car: Tortola is hilly, and taxis add up fast, so if you can afford a rental, do it. We recommend Jerry's Car Rental. Expect 60-80/day depending on the car you want. Get a small SUV and remember that luggage has to fit. Groups may want a bigger car to fit more people.
Taxis are great options, but add up and cause some waiting. You don't want to miss sunset or wait when you need to get somewhere.Group tip: Split a car rental with your travel pod. Daily rates are so much more affordable with a group split.
Plan well: Your rental driver wants to enjoy vacation too. Pack what you need when leaving the house and be courteous about their time.
Some villas are high up in the hills and you can't go back and forth a lot during the day. Make everyone's life easier. We even pack a change of clothes for grabbing dinner before we head back up. Most restaurants are ok do be "surfer chic".
EAT WELL and LEARN YOUR SERVER'S NAME:
D Coal Pot - Roti, seafood, and island comfort food. Wonderful, delicious and killer sunsets all year long.
The Sugar Mill - Upscale with accessible meals; perfect for a special night out.
Long Bay - Chat up new friends at the beach bar or enjoy one of the best meals you'll have on island.
Sebastians- Known for their burgers and pizza and buckets of ice cold beer. Fun and super casual. Learn your server's name.
Grocery + Picnics - Stock up at RiteWay (they deliver ahead) and plan beach picnics to stretch your budget and enjoy a more personal experience
Pro tip: Cook at home - Big group meals at restaurants can take time and part of being with a group is meal prep, music and antics.
Definitely plan some nights for eating at home, to save money and make memories. Servers remember you year after year, so make sure you get their name. It makes a huge difference when you remember them too.
EXPERIENCES:
Snorkeling at Smuggler's Cove - Calm, clear, and free! Bring a snorkel or rent one for a few bucks around the island.
Hike Sage Mountain National Park - Panoramic views + zero entry fee. No boots required, sneakers if you have them, but Berks work.
Ferry to Virgin Gorda - Explore The Baths from ferry by taxi or rental car for (50/day) for a low day-trip cost. Lunch at Hog Heaven and swim at Savannah Bay.
ISLAND TIME IN TORTOLA IS AKIN TO THESE 8 JAPANESE TECHNIQUES:
IKIGAI: Discover your purpose in life. Determine the reason you wake up each morning. Choose something that aligns with your strengths, passions, and the needs of the world. This is what gives life meaning.
KAIZEN: Focus on small improvements every day. You don't have to do everything at once, just aim to make progress little by little.
HARA HACHI BU: Practice mindful eating and moderation. Eat until you're 80% full and you'll feel more energized throughout the day.
GANBARU: Be patient and calm when it comes to expecting results of something you did. Try to do the best that can be done.
WABI-SABI: Find peace in imperfection. Recognize that nothing in life is perfect, including yourself and others. Instead of striving for flawlessness, find joy in the imperfections that make life unique.
KAKEIBO: Make a budget and stick to it. When you have your finances in order, you'll feel less stressed and more motivated to tackle your other goals.
SHOSHIN: Approach tasks with a beginner's mindset. Don't worry about being perfect or having all the answers. Just be open to learning and trying new things.
SHININ-YOKU: Spend time in nature - it's scientifically proven to reduce stress and improve your mood. Take a walk on the beach, breathe in fresh sea air, and let nature recharge you.
PACKING for the bvi
There is no reason to over pack for this trip. It is a long day of travel and you will not want to be lugging around more than you need. Tortola is a very relaxed place and the regulars are all relaxed too. If you are over dressed, you kind of look like you don’t have the inside track, so relax and pack just what you will need. Most restaurants have people sitting with feet in the sand or just plain sandy feet. No worries. Nobody cares. Actually, the more confident you are in your “beach presence”, the more you will enjoy not giving a shit. ; ) You’ll know when cleaning your feet is appropriate!
Pack ONLY What You Know You’ll Wear + use
Bring only tried and true favorites that you know will be comfortable and practical. You will wear these repeatedly and ignore everything else in your suitcase.
Use a Small CARRY-On
Bring a small suitcase, you’ll naturally be mindful of what you pack, they fit in the overhead and are cheaper on the ferry.
avoid waiting for baggage
It takes 15-20 minutes sometimes for luggage to come out in St. Thomas, so a great way to beat the crowd to the taxi is to pack light and zip outside of the airport to your ferry ($) or water taxi ($$$). You can enjoy a cold drink and bite to eat at The Petite Pump Room above the ferry in Charlotte Amalie or one of the nearby restaurants after you check in with your passport and tag your bags for the ferry with “The Bagman”. Tip him well. Remove any valuable items from your carry on. I usually take my laptop out and drag it with me, just to be sure. Sometimes they throw the bags onto the ferry. Avoid well-loved objects and electronics leaving your sight, just to avoid loss or issue. Keep them with you. Common sense for all travel.
WHEN in Doubt, Leave it Out
If there are items that you’re not sure about, don’t pack them. Likely, you won’t miss them. You don’t really need warm clothes or more than one sweatshirt. If you always wear a few outfits because of ease and comfort…those go in first. It is hot there, so fabrics that show sweat or make you hot, think twice. Most villas have washer and dryers. Definitely book one with. Beach towels and your fave items will need a washing after a bit, so consider having a W/D a must.
BASICS items for a bvi trip
Here are some items everyone will want to have on hand.
SPF shirt: At least one long sleeved SPF shirt, just in case. The sun is harsh and I always pack one.
Bring Ziploc Bags: I usually bring 4 large bags and about 6 quart bags. You will need them for all kinds of things. You can order them with your grocery items too, but expensive to just use a few. They are also great for making flat ice packets for the cooler and to put any wet clothing in for the trip home. I stash a few in my back pack or beach bag as well. You will use them!
2-4 Bathing Suits: A must for a 7-10 day beach vacation. That way, you’ll have one to wear while the other is drying.
Workout/walking/hiking Outfit: If you’d like to exercise, you’ll want to take along a workout outfit so you can use the gym in your hotel or participate in a session of beach yoga. This outfit can double as casual wear.
1 Hoodie, Pashmina, Sarong or Sweater: This is nice to have to layer, especially at night or lounging. A sarong can be used on the plane to keep you warm, as a wrap from the sun or cool nights, or a coverup for the beach. I bring a small one and a big one and use them all the time, and also can complete an outfit or disguise one you wore yesterday.
Light Windbreaker: It does rain on and off, so if you can pack a light windbreaker in your bag, why not? Not a must. Most villas have umbrellas to use too. We never take them.
Sunglasses: Sunglasses with UV protection are a must when it comes to your eyes. You will be uncomfortable without them.
Hat: Hats will protect your skin and eyes from the sun, even when your sunblock wears off.
2-3 Tanks or Tees: Tanks and tees are staples.
2-3 Pairs of Shorts: Shorts are cool, comfy, and will work as the base of a casual daytime outfit. If you like rompers or jumpsuits, you can use them to replace shorts/tee sets.
Shoes: Shoes can be bulky and heavy, but having the footwear you’ll need will help you get the most out of your trip. Fly in a pair of sneakers, and pack in your bag a pair of comfortable, lightweight sandals for the town and beach. If I can fit one back up pair, I bring in case something happens. The last think you want to do is run around looking for shoes. There is not much shopping on Tortola, although you can find small boutiques here and there.
Sleeping: Minimalist tip: a couple of extra comfy T-shirts and shorts can be worn to sleep and double as casual wear.
Under things: Undergarments are another necessity. When packing them, think about the cuts and fabrics of the outfits you will be wearing to ensure the underwear work with your outfits. Pro tip: Try them out before you pack.
Socks: I usually pack one extra pair than the one I am wearing. Pack more if you are going to be wearing sneakers or running, etc. We are usually barefoot or in flip flops. Most villas have washer/dryer, but not all. If you are by the water, a lot of things will not dry all the way either, so make sure you leave in the sun and secure. Breezy days send things flying.
Accessories: Keep accessories to a minimum, taking only those you know you’re going to wear. It is hot and why fuss? Most people are earthy surfer types and folks that are over dressed look out of place. This is a casual, surfy vibe. While getting a little cleaned up for dinner in a nice sun dress and dress shirt is nice, most places you can roll in off the beach. If it’s after happy hour, you may want to do a “rinse and hold”.
Jewelry: Avoid bringing any pricey jewelry while beaching in case of loss. Also, we never bring expensive watches or anything with us. No need.
Water bottle: A must for your daily drinking water.
Gear: I pack some first aid and pharmacy items in a bag, including Bacitracin, Band-aids, Immodium, Tums, Advil, Excedrin, Tissues and I keep a little roll of TP, because you never know when you will be out and about and it will be needed.
WATER usage on the island
Conserve water at all times. Tortola’s only water source is the rain and desalinated sea water. Conserve and take only 5 minute showers, lovingly referred to by our Chapman friends as “rinse and hold”. What you do before happy hour if your villa is down low.
Buy big jugs of bottled water to fill our water bottles and avoid lots of small water bottle waste. All trash is your responsibility to sort and bring to the trash pick up areas. The visitor guides in the villa usually tell you where they are. For West End, there is one on Zion Hill Road near the ball field.
Trash
As a rule, we empty trash every day if there are food remaining in it at the villa. It is an island and lots of critters are attracted to trash and fruit. Never leave any food out at all. Nothing. Open bag of chips—-secure tightly and put it in a ziplock bag. Be sure to wipe counters and floors of crumbs and anything sweet.
Ladies
2 Cover Ups: On a beach vacation, you just may be wearing a coverup more than any other item of clothing (except perhaps your bathing suit). Take along one or two that are fashionable enough to pass as dresses so you can walk around town in them if you’d like.
Dressy Outfits: Simple dresses are perfect and easy for a beach vacation. Maxis or long skirts are nice but it can be very hot there even at night, but they do pack a punch and are perfect for day or night. A couple dressy outfit are nice for dinners at restaurants, like Brandywine, Bananakeet, or The Sugar Mill or Long Bay’s 1748.
guys
2-3 SPF Shirts: If you are concerned with sun exposure, long sleeved spf shirts are a must. You will see many people wearing them everywhere. Protect yourself from UV rays.
2-3 Button Ups: A button-up may be considered the masculine equivalent of feminine bathing suit cover-ups. You can easily throw one on with a bathing suit when going to and from the beach. It will also come in handy for semi-formal occasions.
2-3 Shorts: A few nice pairs of shorts to wear pre or post beach out to breakfast or to happy hour and dinner. Most men wear dress shorts out to dinner, even at nicer restaurants.
5-6 T-shirts: Easy peasy.
A Pair of khaki or Prana-like, or linen Pants: Having the versatility to throw on a pair of light weight beach pants if you’d like to is always nice, especially for nice dinners.
ESSENTIALS
Forgetting anything causes a lot of snafu once you arrive. Wasting vacation hours driving around looking for things is very annoying, especially for your designated drivers. Many essentials from home are not available on Tortola. Don’t spend your vacation running around looking for shit you forgot or just thought you would purchase there. There really are only 3-5 full groceries on the island and they are all 20-50 minutes away. If you forget anything, be a champ and call a taxi —take initiative o go out and track it down instead of putting your whole group out.
Cash is needed everywhere and the few ATMs do not always work. Nanny Cay, Cane Garden Bay, Road Town have ATMs. Bring $1000 cash and separate it into 3 different places in your baggage. Never check a bag with cash in it or anything you want to keep as a rule when traveling anywhere. This includes laptops, cameras or any electronics or jewelry. Just don’t do it, ever.
Toothbrush/Toothpaste (easily found but stores are 20 min away, so easily an hour trek)
Reef Safe Sunblock - help protect the marine life (easily found)
Deodorant (easily found)
Razor *very hard to find
UV protective Lip balm (easily found)
Shampoo/Conditioner (easily found)
Moisturizer is hard to find. Coconut oil to moisturize: coconut oil can be picked up at the grocery store.
Nail polish and remover are impossible to find, so bring a little bit if you think you will need them.
There is one cosmetic store, Hazem Beauty Supply in Road Town hidden behind the Rite Way on Flemming Street. It is pretty urban and carries a few American drug store brands, but do not expect to find any high end cosmetics anywhere.
BRING your own feminine products. Hard to find and you will not find your brands.
Tech
remote battery pack
phone + charger
laptop/tablet + charger
plugs are US plugs
TORTOLA, Our 6 favorite beaches
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Smugglers Beach, West End
Two of the coolest little shacks in the Caribbean, Nigel’s and Patricia’s are found at Smugglers Cove. A lovely, hard to get to beach. Sometimes rocky to enter, depending on sand shifts. One of our favorite beaches. Each shack has a portie hidden behind, but no formal facilities. Cash only.
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Long Bay Beach, West End
Long Bay Beach and Belmont are our favorite places to alternate days lounging in the sand or swimming. The resort has a wonderful beach bar for lunch and cold cocktails and beers. Our absolute favorite place to spend the majority of time. Shaded sand behind the beach bar is a nice space from sun. Note: There are 2 Long Bays.
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Cane Garden Bay
A very busy and touristy beach that has all the amenities. We only go here when there are no cruise ships in port. Lounge chairs are available. Indigo Beach Bar is one of our favorite place for happy hour and sunset too. Vishaal who runs it is wonderful.
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Josiah's Bay Beach
A long beautiful beach way out at the East End. There is a surf school and you can rent boogie boards. During Dec to Feb there is high surf and a big undertow. The sand is pink-tinged and the water is beautiful clear blue. There are a couple shacks to buy lunch and cold beers. Cash only.
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Trunk Bay Beach, North Side
Trunk Bay, Tortola is on the northern side of the island straight up from Road Town. It is a secluded beach with about 20 newer villas. There is a steep dirt and rock road leading down, so you will need to park at the top out of the way or have a 4WD to navigate down and back up. Most likely you will have the place to yourself or see someone walking their dog. It is gorgeous with super soft sand. No bathrooms. Primitive. Pack a cooler with lunch/drinks and waters if you are going.
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Brewers Bay
The best snorkeling we have found off the beach is at Brewers. If you stay to the left near the lava wall, there are corals and sea life along the reef. There is a little beach bar, Nicoles to grab a cold beer and some food.
Tips When Visiting Tortola Restaurants
Important things you might want to keep in mind when visiting the many best restaurants in Tortola, BVI:
Embrace Island Time: We cannot stress this enough. Island time is real. Life is often laid back and the same can be said for dining in Tortola. Meals take a little longer than you might be used to, especially if you’re ordering fresh seafood. Make reservations when possible especially at popular places. Instead of getting impatient, use this time to soak up the vibes, enjoy the company you’re with, and savour a drink. Be courteous to the staff, as they are all doing their best. Service is not the same level as in the states, so do not expect fast hustling servers. If you are hungry when you arrive, try to order an app and a round of drinks right when you are seated. Many Americans and tourists are very entitled, so do not be those kind of visitors. Talk to your servers, ask their names.
Happy Hour is real: We often pack what we need to go from beach to dinner so we don’t have to go back up the villa. Sometimes that is not possible. Sunset is a destination, so make sure you plan on where to be for happy hour and sunset. If you stay closer down the hill nearer the main coastal road, it is easier to run in for a rinse before dinner.
Carry Cash Always: While many restaurants and cafes in Tortola accept cards, many do not. It’s always a good idea to have cash, especially for smaller places, roadside stalls, or when tipping for excellent service. Most villas have safes, so leave reserve cash, laptops and jewelry in the safe. If there is no safe, be strategic and smart. Always lock doors and windows when you leave as common sense to avoid any incidents that can be avoided.
Reservations: Tortola’s restaurants can get busy, especially during peak tourist seasons. If you’ve got your heart set on a particular spot or it’s a special occasion, make a reservation. This ensures you won’t be left waiting or turned away. It can take some time to get from place to place so planning is a must, even for spontaneous people. Also, before you drive across the island, call ahead everywhere you go. Hours are just suggested on the island. For real.
Check Facebook for Updates: Many Tortola restaurants are active on Facebook. It’s a good platform to check for any changes in opening times, daily or weekly specials, and any upcoming events or themed nights they might be hosting. With the ever-evolving landscape of island events and special dishes, Facebook is a reliable way to stay in the loop.
Engage with Locals: Locals often have the best recommendations for hidden gems or dishes to try! Whether you’re looking for the best conch fritters or a romantic spot for sunset views, a local’s advice can add that special touch to your experience visiting the best restaurants in Tortola. Talk to everyone. It makes getting connected to the island so much more meaningful. Now people know us, because we take the time to chat and catch up.
Share on social media: Local restaurants and businesses benefit so much from your photos and stories. Share and tag them!
TORTOLA, Our favorite restaurants
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1748 & Johnny's Beach Bar, Long Bay Resort
The restaurant at brand-new, delightfully laid-back boutique resort rebuilt after Irma in 2017, with 20 whitewashed suites opening directly onto the beach, with a spa and hillside rooms to follow. A thatched cocktail bar called Johnny’s and an open-air restaurant, Long Bay Resort has a wonderful garden to table practice, island fusion and a great sushi bar. The beach bar offers healthy lunch choices and this place is one of our favorite hangs day or night, especially when Steven or Clevon are working. The restaurant is more upscale and pricey, but there are lesser priced options. Definitely the place to splurge. The green curry shrimp are delicious. Call to book a rez at 1748.
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Indigo Beach House
Indigo Beach House is one of our favorite places for happy hour and sunset too. The creative food menu is delicious and the specialty cocktails are made with love. Many locals have their seat at the bar and Vishaal knows everyone in town. Order the cauliflower and tacos and a bunch of stuff to share. You will want to taste it all. A great place for sunset and also places you at Cane for some nightlife if you are looking for it. Vishaal who runs it is wonderful. Make rez from FB page or WhatsApp Vishaal. +1 284-343-5503 *CLOSED on Mondays
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Nigel's at Smugglers
Nigel is the Mayor of Smugglers. Nestled right in the tree cover that is growing back after Irma, this is one of our favorite places to hang out. He makes a mean painkiller and his food is outstanding. Don’t miss the Bush Dog. You will eat here a few times on your trip. Take it in. No pretense, just perfect. *No facilities. There is a porto.
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Patricia's Beach Bar @ Smugglers
While Patricia’s Beach Bar is the perfect shack on the beach under the palms. She fills the bellies of everyone that goes down to Smugglers because her BBQ in the air. She ends service right before sunset, so if you are in West End…you know she and her crew will be there grillin’ for you. Tip her well. She’s magical. *No facilities. There is a porto.
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Bananakeet at Heritage Inn
A wonderful place to go for happy hour and sunset or a lovely upscale dinner on the cliffside vantage point overlooking the channel between Tortola and Jost Van Dyke. The food is fantastic and the menu is available online to view ahead of time. The switchbacks are tight and steep and the parking tight, but so worth the views. A nice covered veranda works well if there is a little rain too. You may just see a rainbow. Call to book a rez.
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The Sugar Mill
The Sugar Mill restaurant is in an old plantation building right on the water in a small boutique resort that harkens back the way vacationers spent a holiday in the Caribbean decades ago. Filled with nostalgia and also a dark past of slavery, the stones tell stories of history in what is a transformed space with so much raw character. Known for risotto, you must order some as a side dish, but the Champagne scallops are not to be missed. Upscale. Book a rez.
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Omar's Cafe
Located in Soper’s Hole Marina. Go for breakfast. Get the eggs Benny on a bagel with spinach. Great coffee and we are ultimate coffee snobs. We love perfectly roasted and prepared coffee and this is better than most anywhere we have had coffee out. Locate on the water in Soper’s Hole, get there on the early side or you will have to wait. It is worth it. The marina and shops are lovely. (Pusser’s is a corp chain, we avoid eating there.)
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Omar's @ Sand Spit
Omar's always has a diverse vibe, and in their new place just at the bridge to Soper’s is "Omar's @ Sand Spit". The love for spicy Indian cuisine, the rare low lighting gives a contemporary environment that you don’t find in many places. There is a stage area with live entertainment. No water views or sunsets from here. Delicious food and great vibes. All the boats in port at the Soper’s fill these restaurants at night. Dog friendly outside.
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Omar's Nanny Cay
Indian Fusionfrom breakfast to dinner, Rotis and cool vibes on the water in the marina shops at Nanny Cay. We love Omar’s. Drive all the way around to your right. There is an ATM and a small Rite Way grocery store for provisioning. We love all of the Omar’s places. Left my purse here once and the server kept if safe waiting for me to retrace my steps.
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Paradise Club
Located in Cane Garden Bay, Paradise is a great place for sunset and happy hour. The beers are cold and the food is great. Order the chicken wings. Feet in the sand until the sun goes down with some live music and this place turns into a dance club at night and restaurant upstairs. Many locals hang out here as well so it has a cool vibe. Book a rez for evening dinner.
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Tropical Fusion
Next to Long Bay is Tropical Fusion. We have had some nice meals there but it is never very busy. It is right on the water and a nice place to sit for sunset at the small bar. They had an award winning chef. No vibe really, just basic, we have not been in a while and always feel like we should. Adding it here so know. Poke your head in, it’s been a while. We just don’t understand how they are not learning from Long Bay at least.
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D' Coal Pot
Right on the water in Carrot Bay. The best sunsets in any month, incredible chicken wings and lovely staff that remembers us. Each entree is delicious. We have tried almost everything there. We love it here and return multiple times each trip. Known for local fresh fish and all around delicious Caribbean style food. Make a rez.
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Peg Leg at Nanny Cay
Bear left into Nanny Cay and Peg Leg is all the way at the end, facing St. John and Francis Drake Channel. A lively place where the pirates hang out. Super chill, locals, sailors and those in the know. Off the beaten path for regular tourists or cruise ship people. Basic island menu with daily features. Friday is BBQ night.
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Capriccio di Mare, ROAD TOWN
Traditional Italian cuisine served al fresco under a twinkling canopy of greenery and inside in an intimate setting. Fantastic food and atmosphere. Make a rez and check hours before driving all the way into town. There are 2, Road Town and Hodges Creek East End.
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Capriccio di Mare, Hodges Creek
Just opened at the end of 2024. Delicious traditional Italian cooking right on the marina in Hodges at East End. Worth a stop if you are driving back from Josiah’s Bay Beach, taking the less crazy shore road. There are 2, here and Road Town.
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Brandywine Estate, East End
A very fine dining experience in a truly special place. Anticipate a warm welcome to our little slice of paradise, where great food, beautiful views, a cool breeze and refined ambiance combine to make Brandywine a very unique place. Chef Regis and his wife, Claudine are wonderful. The French influence on the Caribbean food is to die for. This is where our friends Jen and Steve got married. Their photo is on the site. Check site for hours. Rez: +1 (284) 495-2301 or reservations@brandywinerestaurant.com
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Stoutts Lookout
You start seeing family names around the island. Stoutt is one of them. We love stopping at Stoutts on the way to or from wherever to either have a burger and a cold Carib or just a drink to take in the views and the breeze. Stop and chat if it’s not too busy. There are stories to be told. ; )
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The Admiral Pub
It used to be the dive shack that all the crew members from the cats hung out at, but since it’s renovation, it looks more liberated, sadly. We liked the dive vibe. Go there for cheaper eats. Excellent pizza. Right at the beginning of Soper’s on the right. Call before you go, sometimes the cook decides not to work. Island time.
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Quitos
Quito's Gazebo in Cane Garden Bay, founded by Quito in 1983, marks the birthplace of the infectious reggae beat that has captured hearts ever since. Over the years, this iconic establishment has seen numerous iterations, either shaped by human hands or the relentless force of hurricanes. Reggae vibes on Cane. Always a good time. Watch the cruise ship schedule and avoid Cane if ships are in, usually good by 3pm.
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Myetts at Cane
Walk through garden paths that open to on the beach dining, featuring fresh lobster, fish, shrimp, steak, vegetarian, standard pub-ish food. Sunset Happy Hour daily with special drink prices. There is always good music & live Island entertainment several days of the week. Reservations are recommended. Watch the cruise ship schedule and avoid Cane if ships are in, usually good by 3pm. Bring bug spray if you are there at sunset. ; )
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Glenns
Our hidden secret, Glenn’s stuffed shrimp. He is in a little shack next to Myetts near the bathrooms and parking lot. If we spend any beach time in Cane, it is in front of his place, eating orders of the shrimp. I think we may have booked a trip once just to have his shrimp. No web presence at all. We kind of avoid Cane unless we are meeting friends. We go for Indigo and Glenns.
